Few things connote the aura of "luxury" like caviar and champagne. While that’s true, I have always maintained that caviar, while delicious, is just another type of food, and champagne is just another type of wine.

But because of that aura … as a rule, a restaurant patron’s choices in caviar and champagne can be quite limited. Many restaurants don’t offer caviar at all; and the few that do offer only one or two different choices. And in terms of champagne, it’s difficult to find a variety on most wine lists.

The Ritz-Carlton Hotel has introduced for The Lounge a new menu, which shows off the versatility and variety of both caviar and champagne. "Caviar Indulgence" offers 11 different selections, and highlights. The accompanying list of sparkling wines offers 24 different champagnes and five choices from California. And if you prefer vodka with your caviar, you can choose from ten labels.

But the best part: for what you get, the prices are quite reasonable!

The Caviar

For the aficionado who enjoys caviar in the traditional way, "Caviar Indulgence" offers four types — Beluga, Ossetra, Sevruga, and Russian Pressed — in 30 or 50 gram portions. The Ritz-Carlton will present it in the traditional way: nestled in a silver présentoir, with mother-of-pearl serving spoons. And accompanying the caviar is both toast points and warm blinis.

I am proud to admit that I completely underestimated the wonderful quality of the Boyajian caviar which the Ritz-Carlton spotlights. Since the demise of the Soviet Union, the quality of Russian caviar has plummeted to such an extent that caviar lovers in Europe will accept caviar only from Iran (which, of course, is embargoed in the USA).

Thankfully, Boyajian seems to help maintain the old high standards of Russia. The Boyajian Beluga showed a nice, large grain roe with uniform shape and smooth texture. The Beluga was delightful when paired with the smoked salmon; each complimented the other perfectly. And the blinis, which tasted like they were made with buckwheat, served as a buffer to the caviar and salmon.

One of my guests selected Ossetra Caviar with Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Crème Fraîche ($21), and remarked that the Ossetra "exploded" in a wonderful flavor.

And for the quality, presentation, and flavor of the offerings, every item on the Caviar Indulgence menu is very reasonably priced. In addition to the à la carte items, the prices for caviar range from $45 for 30 grams of Sevruga to $125 for 50 grams of Beluga.

The Bubbly List

In terms of selection, I have very high praise for the Ritz-Carlton. They have decided to highlight some of the most unique houses and vintages. For example, the Dom Pérignon 1975 ($450) would make a fabulous wine for a first-class evening of caviar (1975 and 1976 are the two best vintages that Dom Pérignon have had this century). Other superlative choices would be the Louis Roederer Cristal 1990 ($275) and the Dom Pérignon 1985 ($325).

But the most superlative choice would have to be (surprise, surprise again!) the Krug 1989. ($225). In addition to being the single best value on the list, the 1989 Krug is also the single best pairing with any of the caviar offering. In all the tastings I’ve had, the 1989 Krug has consistently had a rich taste which lingers on the palate. If you prefer a fruity champagne, the 1990 Cristal is the only choice. If you like a "peppery" champagne, go for La Grande Dame 1990 ($185)

In terms of price: the list of champagnes presents a "mixed bag". As I said above, the 1989 Krug is a great value at $225. "Good" values include the 1990 Cristal at $275 and the 1975 Dom Pérignon at $450. But some of the selections are overpriced compared to the "going rates." Examples include the Veuve-Clicquot Yellow Label ($90); the Louis Roederer Brut Premier ($95), and the Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1990 ($250).

A Comment on the Service

For good or bad, caviar and champagne conjure up images of "luxury", even "pretension". Concomitantly, The Ritz-Carlton presents its caviar offerings with flair, elegance, and beauty — and pretension. And in the setting of The Lounge, one cannot help but "feel" that luxury and pretension. Because of that, I feel compelled to recount a disappointment with the service.

Our waiter, when taking our orders, answering our questions, and even just in small talk, helped to propagate that air of luxury and pretension. In fact, my guests and I remarked that it was so heavy, that it bordered on "sucking up!" But that’s OK! This is caviar! This is champagne! This is the Ritz! Let’s enjoy!

When I placed my order for the smoked salmon with potato salad and Beluga caviar, I specifically instructed the waiter "NO chopped egg." However, when the dish came out, the potato salad had chopped egg yolk in the middle, about ¼ inch thick. Rather than send it back, I decided to just "eat around" the egg.

When this waiter presented the check to me, he asked "How was everything?". I replied that there was chopped egg there. The waiter replied, "Well, it was egg yolk … and there wasn’t that much of it."

Obviously, someone on the Ritz staff made an innocent mistake by including the egg, contrary to my instructions. But the response which the waiter gave me was a bit unsettling; it implied that I was wrong, or at least being too critical. On a general sense, that response quickly served to shatter the air of "pampering" which was created and maintained earlier in the evening.

The Ultimate Superlative Opinion

Despite the incident which I encountered, I do highly recommend the Ritz-Carlton’s "Caviar Indulgence." The menu items are delicious, beautifully presented, and are great values for what you get. While some of the champagnes are overpriced, many of the "grandes marques" are reasonably priced (and a few are great deals!). And The Lounge, with its elegant décor, is a perfect setting to indulge in caviar!

I would not let my experience with the waiter discourage anyone from going (and for the record, I won’t let this one instance discourage me). Everyone makes mistakes. But because "pretension" is what it is, I did feel obliged to mention it.