by Conrado Bondoc
Executive Editor

When the Soviet Union collapsed, a number of things in Russia also started to go downhill. For example, Russia is losing its dominance in international ice hockey. But of much more relevance here, as a whole the quality of Russian caviar has plummeted.

Before the demise of the USSR, the Soviet government strictly controlled the quality and production of exported caviar from the Caspian Sea. But after the Soviet Union ceased to exist, reports abounded that poaching was widespread, unchecked by the government. These poaching activities quickly depreciated the quality; in the past, Russian caviar was viewed as the best in the world. Currently, aficionados generally regard caviar from Iran as the best. The problem, though, is that there are trade sanctions on Iran in this country.

Despite the reputation continuing to deteriorate, one company which markets Russian caviar has maintained its high standards, as well as its status as being a — and possibly the — premier purveyor: Petrossian Paris.

The "Sturgeon Generals"
A Brief History of Caviar and Petrossian

Petrossian Paris claims that its founders, brothers Melkoum and Moucheg Petrossian, introduced caviar to France, in the 1920s. After the USSR formed, the Petrossian brothers were the first to trade with the new government. Since then, Petrossian Paris has had a 70 year relationship, being privileged to be the first to select caviar from the Caspian Sea fisheries.

Today, Petrossian Paris sells not only a wide variety of caviar, but also smoked salmon, sturgeon, rainbow trout, and foie gras, as well as gourmet confections, condiments, and luxury accessories like caviar presentoirs.

The Goods: Caviar

It's weird to think of caviar as anyone's "staple"; but the sturgeon roe is the hallmark and the foundation of Petrossian.

The company offers four types of caviar:

• Beluga: Regarded as the finest quality caviar, Beluga is the largest grain, and most delicate, caviar. This type comes from the roe of Beluga sturgeon, which can weigh over 1,500 pounds and can measure almost 20 feet long.

• Tsar Imperial Ossetra: The Tsar Imperial Ossetra isn't a category used by the industry as a whole. Rather, this is what Petrossian calls it's prime grade of Ossetra. Darker in color and larger than regular ossetra, the Tsar Imperial is hand-selected by Petrossian.

• Ossetra: This kind of caviar comes from the Ossetra sturgeon, which normally weighs only 80-200 pounds. The Ossetra roe has a light brownish color, and has a more fruity flavor than Beluga.

• Sevruga: A medium-grain caviar, Sevruga generally is grey in color, more often light grey. It has a stronger taste than Beluga — but not as rich.

Petrossian has available all four types of caviar in six different sizes, from 50 grams (which serves two people) to 1,000 grams (which can serve 30+ people). Prices start at $60 for the 50g Sevruga, $75 for the 50g Ossetra, $90 for the 50g Tsar Imperial, and finally $125 for the 50g Beluga. The top price, of course, will be paid if you want the half-kilo or Beluga, at $2,400.

The Superlative Opinion: I had the opportunity to sample the Beluga and Tsar Imperial varieties, and both were totally delightful. While I've never had Petrossian's Ossetra, I did notice that their Tsar Imperial is less fruity than Ossetra from other caviar purveyors. Nevertheless, both orders came in fresh.

Some caviar aficionados say that this "black gold" should be enjoyed without any accompaniments, like chopped onion or egg, sour cream, et al. They recommend only the base such as toast points or blinis. I'm of the superlative opinion that if the accompaniments help you enjoy the roe, then go for it!

Editor's Note (hey, that's me!): If you order Petrossian caviar — or any caviar, for that matter, make sure you order the right amount. Unopened, caviar can last as long a four weeks. Once opened, caviar "goes south" real quick! So make sure you polish it all off!

The Goods: Smoked Salmon

After caviar, perhaps the best known delicacy from Petrossian is its smoked salmon. The company says that it tries to achieve a "delicate balance" between dry salting and smoking. The smoking process takes five days of continual supervision.

Petrossian offer three different sizes of its hand-sliced smoked salmon: 8.8 oz "mini-packs" ($35.00); 1.1 lb. large packs ($65.00); and a 2.5 lb. "pre-sliced side" ($125.00).

In addition, Petrossian offers two other varieties of smoked salmon. Their Black Sea spiced salmon is marinated with spices including pepper, juniper, mustard, thyme, and coriander. The 2.5 lb offering ($185.00) serves 10 - 12 people.

Petrossian's Tzarcut smoked salmon presents the salmon's "filet". The 1 lb uncut filet ($80.00) serves 5 - 6 people. The company recommends serving the Tzarcut in one inch bite-sized chunks.

The Superlative Opinion: For two small parties last December, I'd purchased their hand-sliced smoked salmon. In both instances, the salmon arrived in perfect condition; unlike other times when I'd purchased smoked salmon in stores, Petrossian's product had no edge wilting at all.

The taste ... totally exquisite! From my experience, Petrossian's five-day smoking process achieved something important: in contrast to many other times I've had smoked salmon, Petrossian's salmon does not overwhelm you with that salmon 'taste'. The balance was so perfect that I ate almost 1/2 pound myself without feeling full!

Although Petrossian suggests serving its salmon simply, with only toast points, I highly recommend that you enjoy it sprinkled (not covered) with caviar, served on one of their white flour blinis. ($19.00 for a dozen 4-inch blinis).

The Goods: Other Stuff

While Petrossian's reputation is based primarily on its caviar and smoked salmon, you can find a number of other delicacies and gift ideas. The company offers rainbow trout from Normandy and Brittany ($65.00 to $120.00) ... smoked sturgeon from the Caspian Sea ($50.00 to $90.00) ... and chocolates and other sweets, including mint chocolates ($40.00), Viennoise Sacher Tortes ($55.00), and Patés de Fruits ($40.00), small fruit glacées amde from apricot, raspberry, black currant, and strawberry.

For non-food items, Petrossian also offers "accessories" to enhance your presentation and enjoyment of their delicacies, such as caviar presentoirs and tableware from Christofle and Limoges.

Superlative Picks:

• Foie Gras: available in either duck or goose, Petrossian offers this rich, buttery delicacy in 12 different permutations from an 11 oz mousse with truffles ($95.00) to a 1.1 lb. foie gras loaf with truffle ($200.00). Petrossian also offer foie gras paté in eight different varieties, from $15.00 to $95.00.

• A variety of gift sets: Petrossian offers its food delicacies in a number of combinations for gift giving. These gift sets include The Five Muses, a sampler set of all types of their caviar and roe ($195.00) ... a Scandinavian Selection of Black Sea spiced salmon, Tzarcut smoked salmon, and unsliced smoked sturgeon ($80.00) ... and the top Superlative Pick,  Petrossian's "Three Sisters," which includes Sevruga caviar, hand-sliced smoked salmon, and goose foie gras, all in a reusable isothermic bag, for $225.00.

Recommendation

Although I've used Petrossian's mail order service only twice, I believe that I can still give Petrossian a high recommendation. In both orders, the products came quickly and in perfect condition. And the quality of their delicacies did not fluctuate; the flavor was consistently first class.

I do plan to use them in the future ... I like to have dependable, high quality resources.

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