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News/Opinion: The "Yellowboam" from Veuve Clicquot
Ten years ago, while a regular columnist for Digital City, I wrote a column on champagnes for the Year 2000. That column drew widespread attention around the country; even being quoted in Wine Spectator. In that column I had voiced many opinions, especially on the “grandes marques.” One opinion which I voiced in that column is this: the non-vintage “Yellow Label” from Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin is superior in taste and quality to Dom Pérignon. Ten years later – with the sole exception of Dom’s 1973 Oenothèque – that opinion still holds true. Given the choice of a glass of Veuve Clicquot Yellow and a 1995 Dom, I will choose the Veuve. Another opinion I offered was this: while all quality champagnes can age for years (or even decades), champagne ages better in large format bottles, especially magnums and jeroboams. While no one has empirically proved that, my “guess” is that there’s more of the wine to “interact” with itself during aging. In addition, although all bottles are “sealed,” the relative percentage of air and oxygen to wine in a magnum or jeroboam is less than that of a 750 ml bottle. However, I can say from experience that a champagne aged in a magnum or jeroboam has a noticeably richer and more acidic flavor than the same vintage equally aged, but in a 750 ml bottle. In case you haven’t noticed, I’m going somewhere with this: to mark the 130th anniversary of its “Yellow Label”, Veuve Clicquot recently unveiled a limited edition of its non-vintage bubbly. The “Yellowboam”, with a worldwide release of only 3,600, is a jeroboam of Yellow Label. However, each jeroboam has been adorned with luxurious accents. What’s immediately noticeable is the “yellow label” itself. It’s a label; and it’s yellow. But instead of paper, the label is made of one of three types of exotic leathers: ray, alligator, or ostrich. And with the exception of Madame Clicquot’s recognizable signature, there’s no other writing. At the top of the jeroboam, the standard cork foil is
replaced with foil covered in 22 carat gold. And underneath the gold-covered
foil, the muzzle cap – normally adorned with the likeness of Mme. Clicquot –
is replaced with a 24 carat gold-plated cap, engraved with Mme. Clicquot’s
signature. Each of the 3,600 Yellowboams comes inside a beautiful
presentation case and stand. And inside the lid of the case is a matching
leather wallet.
The Champagne Itself While I’ve spoken primarily of the packaging, of course the primary focus is, and should be, on its contents. And what you’ll find inside all the special packaging is what you normally expect: the same wonderful “Yellow Label” champagne. All champagnes are made from a combination of three
grapes: pinot noir, pinot meunier, and chardonnay. In this bottling, Veuve
Clicquot made an interesting blend, dominated by pinot noir (50-55%).
Chardonnay grapes constitutes about 30% of the blend, and the remaining
15-20% is pinot meunier. While, again, you’ll find a similar taste to the
“standard” Yellow Label, I suspect that you will taste a difference
in the wine from the Yellowboam. Due to the impact of a large format bottle,
you’ll probably find a richer and more acidic taste than what you’re used
to. Of course, that also means that Yellowboam will be perfect for long-term
aging in the proper conditions (a cool, constant 55 degrees). Veuve Clicquot
says that its Yellow Label wine in a jeroboam can be aged for “up to 15
years.” Based on my personal experience, I’d “up” that estimate to at
least 30 years (again, assuming a 55 degree storage). Three years ago I
tasted Yellow Label purchased in 1984 in a 750 ml bottle. While its spice
and acidity were noticeably less, the wine was still effervescent, and its
still had a rich flavor. The Superlative Opinion Despite its $2,000 price tag, I’d say it’s a “buy” – assuming you can store it properly. In fact I am seriously considering purchasing a Yellowboam for my own collection (specifically, the ostrich). Interestingly, were I to purchase one, it would be the first jeroboam I have owned; normally I buy champagnes for aging in magnums. If you do, I would let the Yellowboam rest in a cool cellar for five years, but certainly a minimum of two years. As I’ve said before, all champagne benefits from “rest.” Still, you can derive a lot of pleasure while the champagne rests. The Yellowboam is quite a showpiece; one you’ll most likely enjoy showing off to your friends, as it lays right next to the 1982 Chateau Petrus!
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